Water quality is your first line of defense in keeping your fish (koi/goldfish) healthy.
All fish have immune systems and will protect themselves when the water quality is excellent and the water quality is stable. Your pond or quarantine tank water should be tested frequently to insure the health of the water and thus the health of the fish.

Stability of Ph:
Test the Ph of your tap or well water. Test the Ph of your pond. Make comparisons over a few days to establish what Ph your pond water should be on average. Pond Ph may be 7.0 to 9.0 but should be stable in a range of .3. If your pond tests at 7.5 it should maintain that level or similar to a low of 7.2 and a high of 7.8 over 24 to 48 hours. Ph crashes are generally caused by a low level of carbonate hardness. Carbonate hardness or Kh levels above 100 will prevent such Ph crashes and protect the health of your fish.

Stability of carbonate hardness(Kh):
Carbonate Hardness = Total Alkalinity. Test the Kh of the tap or well water. Test the Kh of the pond. Make comparisons over a few days to establish your Kh average. Kh is the buffering ability of your water to hold the Ph at a safe level. Kh should test no less that 100. In the event of low Kh readings baking soda works exceedingly well to maintain proper levels, and can be added without fear of harming the fish. In addition crushed oyster shells or crushed coral can be bagged and placed in filters or in water current areas to buffer the water on a long term basis.

One further note: If you have a bead filter in your filtration system, the Kh must be kept at 200 ppm or more for it to function properly.

Baking soda: 2 to 3lbs per 1000 gallons will raise and stabilize Kh levels and keep the Ph at 8.3 to 8.4. Raise your Ph/Kh slowly over several days. Use maintenance doses of baking soda to keep them at a desired level.

Water quality testing and water quality in general insures pond health. Establish a baseline by testing your "raw water". Then periodically test your pond water. In the event of a koi behavioral problem or fatality testing is very important. In addition, water samples may need to be sent to an outside lab for heavy metal testing. Water test kits should include Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ph, General Hardness, and Carbonate Hardness at a minimum. If you post on this forum with sick fish issues you will be asked for your test results. We will need them to make a proper recommendation for treatment.

You will be asked for:
Raw water test parameters (water you use to change or add water to the pond):
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
GH-general hardness
Kh-carbonate hardness or total alkalinity
PH
City or well water

Pond Parameters:
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
GH-general hardness
KH-carbonate hardness or total alkalinity
PH
Pond temperature.

In addition you'll need to tell us about your filtration system and anything else you feel might help. New fish? Heavy rains?

What behaviors makes you think there is a problem?

Please post pictures of you pond and fish.

Water changes, filtration and aeration:
Consistent and frequent water changes are required for nearly every pond, quarantine tank or aquarium. 10% to 20% weekly water changes are considered customary depending on the number and size of the fish and the size of the pond. This is the only way nitrates(the final result of pond cycling)can be removed. It is also the only way besides filtration to reduce the concentration of minerals and contaminants in the pond.

Almost any pond with fish needs adequate filtration as well as aeration for the health of the fish. These two issues must be addressed but the type of filtration and how aeration is accomplished is better considered on the Pond Construction Section here at Koiphen. However if you have sick fish issues and you post on this forum you will be asked to describe your system.

Water changes usually means the addition of a dechlorinator as most mains water contains at least some chlorine and/or Chloramine. Treat accordingly and dose it at the same time in the same manner every time so that it becomes a habit and is not forgotten.

Water changes also means actually pumping or siphoning out a percentage of the existing pond water-not just adding to it-and making sure the new water TEMPERATURE matches that of the pond oor tank involved.


TEST KIT MANUFACTURERS AND RESELLERS:

Hach Chemical Company
http://www.Hach.com

Hach Company
P.O. Box 389
Loveland, CO. 80539
1-800-227-4224
1-970-669-3050

LaMotte Company
P.O. Box 329
802 Washington Avenue
Chestertown, MD. 26120
1-800-344-3100
1-410-778-3100

Taylor Technologies, Inc.
31 Loveton Circle
Sparks, MD. 21152-9206
1-800-TESTKIT

All three of the above named companies are known for their excellent test kits. If you want to use the best and protect your wet investments call one of them and "get it started". They will all use total alkalinity test kits as Kh or carbonate hardness.

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals and Tetra test kits are available at most pet shops and pond suppliers.

Note: If the test kit looks old or dusty, it has probably been on the shelf far too long and is outdated. Check for dating before you buy. Liquid reagents have a shelf life of one year. Powdered reagents have a shelf life of up to four years.

Some Common Abbreviations:
Kh=carbonate hardness, or for many hobbyists, total alkalinity. It is usually measured in PPM.
PPM=parts per million.
GH=general hardness of your tap or pond water. It is measured in Grains or in PPM
PP=potassium permangante(KMn04). A strong oxidizer. It is used for parasite control and reduction of organics.
FMG=formaldehyde and malachite green. ProformC is a common trade name. It is used for parasite control.
ANN=ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The primary tests for water problems.
IP=intraperitoneal injection. The injection site in front of the vent behind the ventral fins and just off to the side of an imaginary "centerline", at approximately six degrees with the needle pointed toward the head.
IM=Injection site in the muscular region of the body either side of the dorsal. Not for the untrained.
ST=sodium thiosulfate. A dechlorinator commonly in crystal form but also in liquid. Goes by many trade names but most do about the same thing.
DIY=do it yourself.
GFCI=A moisture sensitive circuit breaker. A very good thing to have in the electrical box for pond use. In most areas it is code.
Scrape and Scope=A procedure which can help identify parasites with a microscope. A microscope is equally as valuable as medications, perfect water conditions, and your most expensive fish.

Behavioral Symptoms Which Should Send The Alarm:
There are many unusual behaviors which can cause concern. Observe for those which repeatedly occur. Isolating from the rest of the herd, laying on the bottom especially if the fins are clamped to the body, a head down attutude, repeatedly flashing, a slimy-white excess slime coat, not eating, spitting, coughing, shaking of the head while swimming in "reverse" and so forth. These observations must be relayed along with any other pertinent information. Be assured we'll ask whether you've acquired any new fish and if they were quarantined.

Quarantine?
If you haven't and you're reading this it's probably too late. The next time you acquire a new fish it should be quarantined for at least four weeks in water from your pond or from your mains supply. In addition it is always good to place one of your present collection with the newcomer. A buddy is always good, and it insures that the existing population will not be adversely affected by the newcomer's bugs. I assure you, they will have bugs.

Parasites Common To Koi And Other Ornamental Fish:
A microscope is needed to view these:

Ichthyobodo Nectrix - Costia----------300X-400X
Chilodonella -Chilo--------------------200X
Trichodina -tricky---------------------200X
Ichthyophthirius multifilils -ick----------200X
Epistylis-------------------------------200x
Oodinium------------------------------200X
Hexamita------------------------------200X
Dactylogyrus - gill flukes---------------100X
Gyrodactylus - skin flukes--------------100X

Argulus - fish lice---------------close visual inspection
Lernaea - anchor worm---------close visual inspection

STOCKING THE MEDICINE CHEST FOR GENERAL PARASITE CONTROL:

KMno4 - Potassium Permangante:
Potassium permanganate is capable of doing great things in terms of parasite control, but it is also capable of rapidly killing all your fish if used improperly. This is a poison. The "dip", which is described further on in the Sticky is very effective and is fairly safe because of it's precise nature. PP, when used in a pond setting is only as good as the person using it. Too strong and the fish will suffer and die. Too weak and the parasites will laugh at it. For it to be effective in a pond the pond itself must be in fairly good shape, clean and free from organics(waste-plant debris etc.). The pond capacity(gallons) must be known. No guesswork on this.

For microscopic parasites excluding flukes use 1.5ppm KMNo4(potassium permanganate) in a clean pond. Two consecutive days and do not reverse the chemical. Add aeration.

The Dip
A dip of 8 grams KMN04 per 40 litres of mid-seventy degree water can be used but for no more than 2.5 minutes. Precise measurement is critical. Aerate. This dip requires several containers as well as an uncontaminated pond or q-tank to place the treated specimens. Pre-dip and post-dip containers are a must. Make sure they can be covered securely. This is a bit over 200ppm! Dips only work if the container(pond)the treated fish are being returned to is parasite free.

A gram scale is required to measure this chemical. Please calibrate it frequently.

For 1000 US gallons here is a brief chart:

PPM---------------Grams needed:

1.0----------------3.785
2.0----------------5.570
3.0---------------11.355
4.0---------------15.140

Any dechlorinator or hydrogen peroxide will reverse this chemical. Make sure you have enough to neutralize at least twice the amount used.

ProformC or Formaldehyde and Malachite Green:
FMG is effective on most microscopic parasites except flukes. This is a poison. It is dosed in amounts which will effectively kill the parasites without killing the host. Overdosing may damage or kill your fish. Formaldehyde is generally available from farm supply stores. It is 37% formaldehyde and 11~12% methanol. Commercial mixes such as ProformC are available from pond and koi suppliers. While it is a bit weaker it still works well. It also gives the end user a larger margin for error. It is 22% formaldehyde and about 7.5% methanol.

The labeling on ProformC advises three treatments(one each day)with small water changes. Before the third dose, I like to see a 25% water change, and then retreat, especially if flukes are suspected. Praziquantel can be added at this time. A small percentage of salt in the water will not affect the treatment or the fish. Since this treatment is for flukes it is temperature/life cycle dependent. Flukes can take 30 days to eradicate if the water is in the low sixties. This takes several retreatments. Warmer waters reduces the time frame.

Praziquantel:
A trematodicide. Praziquantel induces a rapid contraction of schistosomes(a worm or fluke)by a specific effect on the permeability of the cell membrane. The drug further causes vacuolization(causes more and larger spaces or cavities within each individual cell)and disintegration of the cells as well as the Schistosome tegument(the fluke body covering). Bursting of the cell walls might be a much simpler way of describing it and may be equally correct.

Praziquantel must be ingested by the fluke to work. The dosage is one gram per 100 gallons of water. Currently the directions suggest using level tablespoons to measure the product. That is a mistake. In my experience a level tablespoon may hold anywhere from 2.5 to 4.5 grams of product. Not only is this wasteful and inaccurate; it is also very expensive. Please use a gram scale. Calibrate it often.

Since it does not mix readily with water a label dosage ProformC may be used, or it can be dosed with the ProformC as part of the treatment described above. Once it is fully dissolved it does not seem to filter out or precipitate. It simply degrades over time. When using Praziquantel, the water temperature should be in the mid-seventies(US). The first treatment should last seven days whether treating for gill flukes (Dactylogyrus) or skin flukes (Gyrodactylus). Water changes should be made between treatments if necessary as redosing will immediately bring it to the strength needed to find and kill flukes. I strongly recommend a second if not a third application of this product due to the life cycle of the flukes as well as the thickness of the slime coat on Koi. In colder waters a third and even a fourth application should be considered. Because of the cost of Praziquantel and the reduced treatment time it is well worth the effort to bring the temperature up to optimum.

Praziquantel as a kicker
At times I've had situations where the standard doses and protocol of the ProformC and Praziquantel simply doesn't seem to work. In those situations I dose with a standard dose on day one. Then I wait 48 hours and redose with another standard treatment and allow that to stand for ten days. At the end of ten days I scrape and scope. If the water temperature is in the mid-seventies the flukes will be gone. Lower temperatures will require a repetition of the treatments after a 50% water change. I have never seen any ill effect whether in soft or hard water with this treatment.

Supaverm:
Know that this product has been accused of burning fins and suppressing the immune system. This accusation has been substantiated by several members of Koiphen. Therefore I would strongly suggest that it be avoided. There are several methods for reducing flukes which are much safer.

There are a few very experienced collectors and dealers that swear it works at the dosage on the label and have never had a problem. The choice is up to you. In any case Supaverm settles out in the container and must be mixed very thoroughly before use.

Organphosphates-Fluke Tabs:
According to some koi keepers, this product will kill koi if over-dosed. Fluke Tabs work well in waters where the Kh is less than 170ppm. Above that the poison is bound by the water and becomes ineffective. Attempts at double and triple dosing in high Kh waters results in killing the flukes AND the fish. There are tests taking place currently to verify the accuracy of this information.

Fenbendazole:
An older type dewormer which seems to work at times, the dosage is 3 grams per 300 gallons.

Chloramine T:
Before using this product consider it's potential for disaster.
Not recommended here.


Dimilin (diflubenzuron 25% wettable powder):
Actually this is an insecticide for greenhouse use. This powder works well in eradicating anchor worm(Lernea)and fish lice(Argulus). One gram will treat 3000 gallons. It is quite forgiving and an overdose usually will not cause irrepairable harm. The parasites should be removed by soaking them in iodine or potassium permanganate paste and pulling them carefully with a tweezers. Sedating(described below)the fish will prevent uncontrolled thrashing and further damage to the fish during this process. No ill effect is noted from sedation.

There are liquid forms of Dimilin on the market. Follow the label directions.

salt:
Salt has been used on such a large scale and usually for no reason that most parasites are resistant to it. Therefore it is adviseable to use salt only when nothing else is available and then at at .6%-.7%. Notice the decimal point.

Exception 1:
Salt is known to protect fish from nitrites. The percentage of salt in this case is.15%.

Exception 2:
Salt is required, at least so the story goes, when using Elbagin (a Japanese water column antibacterial agent very similar to Furazone Green). The percentage of salt in this case is .6%.

Exception 3:
Salt will aid in osmotic regulation of an immuno-depressed fish. New imports, as well as fish with bacterial infections are sometimes treated to aid their recovery. However this practice is no longer so widespread as it is recognized that overuse of any medicine leads to resistance and diminished effect. The percentage of salt used this way varies. Be aware that salt adversely affects some medications.

Exception 4:
Two parasites can still be controlled successfully with salt. They are Chilodonella and Ich. The percentage of salt in this case is .6%. The water temperature should be in the mid-seventies(US) and the duration of the treatment should be 24 days. Most other parasites are no longer deterred by salt.

Since salt occurs naturally in most waters, it is unnecessary to add it to pond water for ANY health reasons except those listed above and prevention of nitrite poisoning during the cycling of a filter. For informational purposes here is how to calculate salt:

.1% salt in 100 US gallons is .8333 pounds.
.1% salt in 1000 US gallons is 8.333 pounds.

.3% salt in 100 US gallons is 2.5 pounds.
.3% salt in 1000 US gallons is 25 pounds.

.6% salt in 100 US gallons is 5.0 pounds.
.6% salt in 1000 US gallons is 50 pounds.

.15% salt in one US ton(265 gallons) is 3.313 pounds.

Salt and Nitrites:
Dosage is .15%. Salt will slow if not stop the uptake of nitrites. Yes, it is listed and described here twice.

Know What You Are Treating For:
Koi parasite videos:

http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/video/fishmovies.htm
http://www.web4.ehost-services.com/koimag3/koitv.asp

Sedating a fish for treatment:
Clove oil at a rate of 8-10 drops per gallon will calm a fish in a matter of minutes. Add the clove oil to a container of water which can be shook thoroughly. Then add it to the sedating bowl. DO NOT LEAVE THE FISH UNATTENDED DURING THIS TIME. Use only enough water to cover the fish. Aerate. When the fish lays over on your hand without flopping and while still having gill movement it is ready for treatment. Practice this a couple of times keeping a supply of fresh water close by. If for any reason you feel the fish has become sedated too deeply, simply move it to fresh aerated water and assist the fish in using the gills and hold near aeration.

Injectable antibiotics and bacterial infections(ulcer disease):
Two things will bring on ulcer disease: poor water conditions and parasites.

Ulcer disease displays itself in many ways. Fin reddening,and erosion, body sores, reddening and swelling of areas of the body, mushy or grey gills to name a few. Catching them in their early stages and injecting them with antibiotics is almost always successful and is actualy quite easy.

If you've never injected anything with a syringe, grab an orange and practice injecting with water. It only takes a couple times to get the hang of it. For ease of injections always sedatethe fish.

The following are injectable tables. These are set forth to help koi keepers help themselves, and to get help from their family veterinarian. Injections should never be given unless a veterinarin has approved the use, or knows the koi keeper well. I deal with two veterinarians(husband and wife team)and keep them informed from time to time about my collection.

Baytril injectable antibiotic is available in three strengths: 2.27%. 5% and 10%. The table below is calculated for 5% Baytril. Baytril in most cases should be the first injectable to use. It is powerful, forgiving, and in almost every instance healing is visible after three injections. The protocol for Baytril is three injections on consecutive days, then two more every other day(EOD) for a total of five injections. Like antibiotics for pets or yourself, it is best to follow through completely. Short-circuiting the injections could lead to Baytril resistant strains. Intraperitoneal injections are usually suggested and are the easiest and safest. Keep this product cool or refrigerate. Baytril is usually dated and has a fairly long shelf life.

Naxcel, Nuflor and Azactam antibiotics may be used in place of Baytril, if Baytril does not promote healing after the third injection, or if it is not available. The injection routine is the same, but some will need to be reconstituted with a saline solution or injectable water. The table reflects the different dosage amounts for each antibiotic. Please note: Other charts on other sites and in published books and periodicals may differ from this chart. This is a compilation of information from actual use by members of Koiphen and from suggested doses found in books and periodicals.

1ml = 1cc

Koi length(inches)----5% Baytril-----Naxcel----Nuflor-----Cefotan-----Azactam

4"-----------------------0.1-------------0.2-------0.2---------0.2---------.08
8"-----------------------0.2-------------0.5-------0.5---------0.5---------.15
12"----------------------0.3-------------0.9-------0.9---------0.9---------.2
14"----------------------0.5-------------1.0-------1.0---------1.0---------.4
16"----------------------0.6-------------1.3-------1.3---------1.3---------.5
18"----------------------0.8-------------1.6-------1.6---------1.6---------.6
20"----------------------0.9-------------1.7-------1.7---------1.7---------.8
22"----------------------1.0-------------1.9-------1.9---------1.9---------.9
24"----------------------1.2-------------2.2-------2.2---------2.2--------1.0
26"----------------------1.3-------------2.4-------2.4---------2.4--------1.1
28"----------------------1.5-------------2.8-------2.8---------2.8--------1.3
30"----------------------1.7-------------3.2-------3.2---------3.2--------1.5

Amikacin:
Amikacin is bactericidal. It kills on contact. When injected daily it can also cause irreparable if not fatal damage to koi. As with all antibiotics use at your own risk. One suggested interval is EOD for three days. Another is twice with a four day interval. There are reports that a single injection of Amikacin did such an amazing job that no further injections were given(whether needed or prescribed remains a mystery).

Amikacin comes in two strengths:
Human use: 250mg/ml, and
Veterinary use: 50mg/ml.

Both should be diluted. The following chart is for Veterinary grade Amikacin:

Koi length (in inches)---50mg/ml Amikacin (diluted)--sterile saline IP:

4-----------------------------.08-------------+------------.3
8-----------------------------.2--------------+------------.5
12----------------------------.4--------------+------------1.0
16----------------------------.6--------------+------------1.4
18----------------------------.7--------------+------------1.5
20----------------------------.85-------------+------------1.75
22----------------------------1.0-------------+------------2.0
24----------------------------1.3-------------+------------2.25
26----------------------------1.5-------------+------------2.5
28----------------------------1.75------------+------------3.3
30----------------------------2.0-------------+------------4.0

Chloramphenicol:
This antibiotic is mentioned favorably from time to time. Please do not use it! This antibiotic will cause Grey's Syndrome in humans.

Dexamethasone:
This is not an antibiotic but a treatment/steroid for shock. For a variety of reasons fish may go into shock. A single injection of "dex" will bring them out of it safely and quickly. The concentration generally used for fish is 4mg/ml. The chart to use is the 5% Baytril chart. A single injection is all that is necessary. Example:
12"koi .3cc
16"koi .6cc
20"koi .9cc
24"koi 1.2cc
28"koi 1.5cc

Injectible Vitamin C
An immune system booster.
Use the Baytril chart. A single injection given as a secondary injection with the first antibiotic injection.

When using these charts remember that the use of an injectible does not guarantee success. Many things can go wrong in the treatment efforts so proceed with caution.

[B[Water column antibiotics/antibacterials:[/B]
There are many medications which lay claim to doing wondrs in the water column. The truth of the matter is that few do very much, and few can be used alone. One exception seems to be Elbagin. This is a water column antibacterial which is gaining an excellent reputation. The problem is that it cannot be purchased in the US at this time. If you have need for a small quantity some of the better importers seem to have it available from time to time. Many of the Japanese breeders treat with Elbagin and salt almost immediately after their fish are harvested from the mud ponds.

Microscopes and supplies:
For microscopes the best place is EBAY. You'll need magnification of 100X to 600X to see the microscopic bugs associated with koi.

For supplies go to:
http://www.carolina.com
1-800-334-5551

Medication, koi, pond related supplies:
It is very important to support our commercial members. These people post frequently on Koiphen, offer great special prices to the members. Nearly anything you are looking for regarding your pond will be found here.

This Area Is Under Serious Construction!!


Sarge - Tim Cash
Broker Extraordinaire
SargesWarehouse@charter.net
Clarksville, TN
Koizyme
ProformC
ProformLA
Tricide Neo
Bio Bandage
Praziquantel
Full Line of WLIM Products
Yamakoshi Koi Food
Milwaukee Meters both
Aquabead Products
EA Products

Koi Village - Gene
accomplished breeder and koi keeper
www.koivillage.com
info@koivillage.com
1-423-235-7317
1165 Pilot Mt. Road
Bulls Gap TN 37711
A complete line of medications.
Foods.
Filters.
Books.
Test kits.
Koi.
UV sterilizers.
Credit cards/Paypal

Kenny Coleman - CountryKoi
Olmstead KY

Koiscapes
www.koiscapes.com
1-954-581-5415
Fax: 1-954-321-1653
Ft.Lauderdale, Florida
Imported koi.
Pumps, filters, and all pond supplies.
Medications.
Pond constuction.
Pond maintanance.
Pond repairs.
Water test kits.
Koi nets.
Koi food.

Rod McConkey - Blue Water Koi
Olympia, WA

Hanover Koi Farms
1332 N. Moulstown Road
Hanover, Pennsylvania 17331
www.hanoverkoifarms.com
1-717-637-1111
John Fornaro, accomplished breeder and koi keeper.
Medications.
Filter media.
Test kits.
Pond heaters.
Wide variety of koi.
Water treatments.
Visa MC Paypal

William Lim Products
Originator: Wave pumps Dragon Pumps
Wlimproducts.com
Distributed by:
Tim Cash/Sarge
Karl Schoeler/Omni-Ponds



Aquaticpondsupplies.com
494 South Court Street
Crown Point, IN 46307
info@aquaticpondsupplies.com
1-219-662-9596-Kevin
Black Knight filter brushes and spawning brushes, Danner pumps, Medo air pumps, Propond skimmers.
Medications.
Imported and Domestic koi.

Aquaman
Oklahoma City, OK

Fancykoi - Doug Ward.
Great Cichlid farm. Japanese Imported Koi
Homestead, Florida

Lotusland Koi Farm
P.O Box 923
Brady Brandwood
Accomplished breeder of koi
Monroe, NC 28111-0923
lotuslandkoifarm.com
brady@lotuslandkoifarm.com
Fine koi for your pond.

www.leefamilykoi.com
Lee Family Koi Farms
Medications in bulk:
Formaldehyde: $12.00 per gallon
Potassium Permanganate: $20.00 per pound
Medicated food: $80.00 per 50lb bag
Chloramine T: Sold by the gram.

Phone: 419-946-1399
Cell: 614-206-2353

Michael - Hammock Koi Farm
hammockkoifarm.com
mike@hammockkoifarm.com
1-865-828-3250
American raised koi from Japanese bloodlines.
P.O. Box 3
Blaine, TN 37709


The Koi Hut
Northeastern Pennsylvania

Bill D - Mystic Koi
Upland, CA
We have a full service 3/4 acre facility offering imported Japanese koi, as well as all of the most popular filtration systems. We are also distributors for Evolution Aqua (Nexus), JPD koi nutrition, as well as wholesale Japanese koi.

Mike - Koi Acres
Scandia, MN
Imported Japanese Koi
Dealer for:
Sequence pumps, Ultima II bead filters, Emperor UV lights, Japanese nets, JPD Koi food, Tricide Neo, Levolor electronic pond level control, Medo & Pondmaster air pumps, Savio products, Test kits & Thermometers, Fountians, Liner, Self contained Quarantine-Wintering-Hospital tanks. We also do consultations for filter systems and retrofitting of existing ponds with filter systems

Dennis-North Prairie Fish Farm
P.O. Box 481
Hwy 249
Hazen, Arkansas 72064
1-870-255-3672
razorbackkoi.com
Pond grade and better grades of koi
Fancy goldfish


Blue Iris Watergardens Blue Iris Watergardens
1-509-921-1001,
7910 E. Desmet, Spokane Valley, Washington 99212
Performance Pro pumps, Aqua Ultraviolet products including Ultima II filters and UVC's, Hakko air pumps, Microb-Lift products including the full line of Legacy foods, Savio products, Winston products, Complete line.
Japanese koi. Vance Schultz Longfins.
Over 100 varieties of aquatic plants (no internet sales)
Plus just about everthing else.


pskorf Paul Korf
Korf Gardens
www.korfgardens.com
pskorf@korfgardens.com
11187 W. White Eagle rd.
Forreston ILL. 61030

Bonnie Hale Bonnie's Plants
Newton, NC
Breeder of butterfly koi
Grower of the largest selection of water plants

Virgin Koi - kgt1223 - the Tancho King
Although they are not flown in from (MOUNT fUJIMOTO) they come from good solid Japanese brood stock that I have been grooming for the last few years. All of my koi are spawned raised
and culled by me. Absolutely no imported koi for sale
and all mudpond raised.

BES Services
An Iowa based Pond Builder / Supplier of Specialty Items.
Features Black Knight Spawning Ropes and Filter Brushes. See the following Web Site for more Information: http://home.mchsi.com/~bes8/wsb/htm...home.html-.html
Accepts Paypal, and is a well established eBay'r...

www.koiboypondsupplies.com
Phone # 303-568-9124
Filters, pumps, medications.

Koi-Auction Koi-Auction's mission is to provide a global trading platform where practically anyone can trade items relating to the Koi and Water Garden hobby at very competitive prices.

Koi-Auction offers an online auction-style venue for items relating to the Koi and Water Garden hobby to be traded each day.Do we qualify?

www.koi.com was the first koi dealer in the world to have a website and offers the cutting edge in products and quality Japanese koi.

www.nishikigoi.com is a web based auction that offers the finest quality Japanese koi available online.

www.nozomidirect.com where you can order the same quality Japanese koi food that is used by Sakai of Hiroshima.

Morninglight Koi Farm
1-360-574-2701
Brian Drake - AKA - Chagoi
www.morninglightkoi.com
www.wholesalekoi.com
We take folks to Japan to buy koi. Check out our site at www.buykoiinjapan.com
Potassium permanganate, Supaverm, Salt, Formalin, Dechlorinator, Books, Filters, koi food.


Mamasonkoi Jim Kitchen
Northern California
Japanese koi
We build koi pond and water features
We do maintenance and sell food, nets and pond products
We also schedule Japan trips for clients


Omni-Pond Pond Products/KR Schoeler Enterprises, Inc.
krs55124@frontiernet.net
1-800-323-2594...then dial 2017 and leave a message
Sue Emerick - Karl Schoeler
ProformC, Praziquantel, OmniClay bentonite pond clay.
Restore pond bacteria, Sodium Thiosulfate.
Premium Select Foods.
Wave and Dragon External Pumps
WLim filtration equipment.
Black Knight Brushes and Propond skimmers.
Organically grown barley straw for water gardens
PM either of us for information.


Cali Koi

Kent Wallace - Living Water Solutions

Janet Mermaid - Mermaid Waterscapes
* Primary: Design and build ponds and watergardens
* Other: Flagstone and slab patios/paths, French drains, retaining walls, custom welded fences, gutters, landscaping, arborist services
* Licensed Landscape Irrigator (LI#9164)
* Dealer for Performance Pro pumps
* Dealer for Intermatic Professional Grade landscape lighting products
* Distributor for DragonKote 100% polyurea spray-on pond liner systems

JoeKoi Waterscape Design
JoeKoi Aquacoats
Spray-On Pond Liners
International Distributors of Koi-Specific Polyurea Coatings

Pondscapes, Inc.
125 shadowlawn. Dr.
Fishers, In 46038
www.hoosierponds.com
pondscapes@sbcglobal.net
1-317-596-POND
Fax: 1-317-596-7664
Jon Landis-owner
Pond Design, Installation, Maintenance and Retail Center.
Dealer of; Japanese Koi, Bead Filtration, Nexus Filtration, UV, Spindrifter and water gardening products. Serving Central Indiana.

AquaPro Koi Systems
Randy Rattray
Brad Blancett
La Palma, California
1-714-318-5540
aquaprokoi@aol.com
A complete line. Pond service, repair and mainenance.
WLim Products, Performance Pro pumps.
Pond filtration equipment, air pumps.
A complete line of koi medications.

Tank Hollow Fisheries
200 W. Tank Hollow Road
Poteet, Texas 78065
Specializing in Long Fin Koi
Vance Schultze
Phone # 830-742-4148
http://www.tankhollowfisheries.com