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Predator
Prevention |
So you have slaved away at building your own custom pond. Toiling in the heat, heaving more stones and boulders than you care to remember, working out all the frustrations and unforeseen design elements. You're to the point you have your beautiful water garden creation built, sitting back to enjoy it with the fish and plants in full glory- and then it happens!
Overnight masked marauders in the form of vandalizing raccoons shred your lilies and eat your fish. Maybe a 3 foot tall blue heron stops by during the day when your at work to decimate your cherished koi and goldfish collection.
And if you want to talk about more predators, this would be the time more remote ponders in the untamed wilderness can contest to kingfishers and fish eating hawks making a easy meal ticket of their ponds.
Whatever your predator, bottom line is last thing you want for your wet pets is to end up in the belly of a unwanted pond visitor.
So how do you protect against these pest? What techniques work? What methods don't work?
Will one deterrent work for multiple predators?
To answer these questions we need to look into the habits and methods these creatures take in coming to your pond for a tasty treat.
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BLUE HERON: Quite possibly the most popular of the POND OFFENDERS, this creature is built for the kill. Mature birds stand 3 feet tall. Long legs allow this creature to perch on the waters edge or wade into the shallows with ease. Slow, stalking movements gets the bird within range of it’s prey. Once the target is seen, a long and powerful neck acts like a spring coil to launch the birds spear shaped bill down into the water to spear and catch unsuspecting fish. Once speared, the blue heron flips the fish a couple times within it’s beak to align the fish head first for a single gulp down it’s throat!
Signs of a attack from a BLUE HERON can include: fish completely gone or fish speared and left on the banks of the pond or left injured in the water. These birds often spear fish too big to eat and discard them with indifference. As with all predator attacks, the remaining fish will often be in hiding and scared to surface. Even when you come to the pond to expect your wet pets to recognize you and come up, often they stay wary and to the depths of the pond. |
| From all my readings on the topic of
these long-legged villains, it seems the most common deterrents are:
Fishing line strung over the pond:
This seems to be one of the best deterrents. Ponders take normal
fishing line and string a crisscrossing pattern 4-5 feet above their
pond and down to the edges. This almost invisible trip line acts as
a confusing invisible barrier that perplexes the bird as it attempts
to fly in low to land near pond. The act of hitting the lines
startles the bird so badly the bird abandons all attempts to fly
into the pond and leaves.
Fishing line strung around the
perimeter of the pond: Often these birds
will land in nearby trees or another vantage point to carefully
check the area for danger before making a approach to the pond. As
they fly down from their vantage point, a slow and methodical path
is made to the pond. (in this case no fishing line above pond would
help.) However, by stringing fishing line 1 foot off the ground and
along the perimeter about 1 foot back from the water edge will serve
the same startling effect as the fishing line in the air. This
invisible trip line is all it takes to baffle these birds and negate
attempts to spear your fish.
Netting the pond completely:
Some ponders go the ALL OUT approach and install netting across the
entire pond. Quite the eyesore, but for some the only peace of mind
that in no way can a blue heron find a opening to take valuable
fish. However, depending on the netting size (ex. 1” square gap or
larger) and if the netting is laid over the pond by just inches, the
blue herons will often still manage to spear fish through the
netting gaps, only to leave the fish injured as they can’t pull the
fish back though the netting mesh. To deal with this, position the
net several feet above the water's surface to increase the distance
the bird must deal with. Don’t think you can cover most of the pond
and leave a small area open. These birds are smart, and will walk
the perimeter looking for the weak spot to exploit. (see one
way to build your own net here)
Water scarecrow devices:
These are nothing more than a sprinkler head with built in motion
and heat sensor detectors. You simple connect this to a water hose
and turn on the water. On the back of the water scarecrow is a knob
you can adjust for sensitivity of what moves in it’s range of
detection. You can also adjust for arc of spray and left to right
coverage of area of spray. When a animal moves within the selected
range of detection, the water scarecrow picks up the heat difference
between that object and the background. Along with the motion, the
sprinkler automatically fires off a controlled burst of about 1.5
cups of water. The water scarecrow then resets itself. It runs off a
9 volt battery. You can go to their site
here or
go to EBAY for this product. Visit this link:
FZEmporium Ebay Store to
review and/or purchase this product. The action, water and noise the
device creates is often enough to deter unwanted pests. The only
downside I can think when using this device on my pond, is
remembering to turn it off when walking up to my pond. Let’s just
say I know it’s HOT here in TEXAS, but when it comes to getting
soaked, that’s what the pool is for!
Devices that seem not to work
as well: Some ponders have bought into the
idea that by placing a fake heron decoy, this would solve the matter
of it’s real life counterpart making a visit since these creatures
are solitary hunters and respect one another’s space. I have to call
BS on that idea, as often I have seen multiple herons feeding in the
same large pools after huge downpours in low lying areas along the
road side. Many a ponder will get a decoy only to suffer the fate of
the real heron paying a visit and leaving with a full stomach! Other
ponders have placed fake alligator heads that float on the surface.
The idea here is the birds will not put themselves in harms way with
one of their natural predators. This is often another half hearted
idea as many of these birds especially in the southern states are
accustomed to the large reptiles in the water and do maintain a
respect for these toothy beasts, but also a tolerance, hunting and
coexisting with them. |
Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinkler
By Contech

The Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinkler chases animals out of your garden with water! When movement is detected, the
Scarecrow instantly releases a 3 second burst of water through the impact sprinkler head
up to 35 Feet Away! The combination of sudden noise, movement and water scares animals away. Requires one 9V alkaline battery (not included) and a garden hose hook-up
The Scarecrow consistently creates a memorable and unpleasant experience through a combination of sudden unexpected noise, unexpected movement, and water spray. The animal immediately associates this unpleasant experience with the location and they begin to avoid the area.
Besides being one of the most effective deterrents available today, the Scarecrow is an alternative to smelly, poisonous, or visually disruptive products available. It is widely endorsed and less expensive than physical barriers. If you've tried other solutions that failed, you're ready for a Scarecrow!

For a creative tweak on the SCARECROW click on the picture to link to Steve's site and learn just how easy it is to use a CD to help you visually see if the device is on or off.
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RACCOONS:
These smart little creatures are adapted to a semi aquatic lifestyle taking full advantage of their intelligence and dexterity to bypass deterrents laid out by ponders. Raccoon raids often happen in the evening to night hours of the day, being mostly nocturnal in nature they come out to forage for plant and animal material. With little fear of water and getting into the pond for a swim for the purpose of snatching fish, these nimble fingered pests also will shred Lily pads and vandalize the pond, turning over rocks and pots to discover tasty aquatic treats.
Evidence of an attack by raccoons can include completely missing fish, scales and fish parts scattered around the pond. Half eaten fish left around the pond. Often finding the pond in a state of disarray is a good sign of a raccoon attack.
Most common deterrents are:
Water scarecrow. This device seems to only work for a matter of time. The noise and spray of water initially may keep a coon or two away for a while, but these furry buggers soon learn there is no danger in the spray of water and don’t mind getting sprayed if it means an easy meal.
A n electric fence is the most effective method I have researched. By installing a small FIDO dog type electric wire around the perimeter of the pond, this shockingly direct approach soon zaps to the point that this pond is not up for any night time visits. Raccoons need to get in reach of their prey and trying to get under or over an electric wire soon proves futile. However, the pond owner must endure the unsightly look of this wire and the occasional accidental shock, but for many it’s the only way to stay raccoon proof. |
FERAL CATS:
Even though many new ponders feel it necessary to
declare war on any cat in their area, most cats pose no threat. Maybe it’s the
memory of all those old cartoons with alley cats feasting on fish that
makes us think that ALL cats are fish eaters. The truth of the matter is that most of these outdoor cats don’t have the fishing skills, nor the desire to get
their paws wet. Most don't even care to expend the energy when they know their owner puts food
out for them. I have seen cats come around my pond, sit quietly on the edge,
and gaze into the waters as if they are enjoying the motion and movement of the fish. They treat the pond more as a huge water bowl
... could it be the delicious, fishy tasting water?
Wild, Feral Cats may, occasionally, pose a threat
to pond fish. Please consider Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) if you
have a Feral cat in your neighborhood. Rather than remove the
cats and take them to a shelter (where these unadoptable cats
are usually killed), you can allow these spayed and neutered
cats to return to their outdoor environment. Because they are
rodent specialists by nature, and you will also be supplementing
their diet with cat food, they should leave your pond fish
alone. Check http://www.alleycat.org/resources_list.html
for more information about TNR and feral cats.
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SNAKES:
Last thing any pond owner wants to encounter is one of these leg-less serpents springing out at them as they prune the lilies or adjust rocks on the waterfall. These creatures in their
eerie appearance strike fear into many just by the looks of them much less the fact that they will feast on smaller fishes if given the opportunity. Species of snakes that can and will feed on fish range from garter snakes to ringnecks to even the poisonous varieties like aquatic water moccasins and copperheads.
Unfortunately I have not encountered any truly efficient method of deterrent short of catching or killing the snake perpetrator. We all have heard the home remedies from putting down a horses tail hair
or moth balls, believing the snakes won’t cross. However, it’s up to the ponder and how
experimental they want to get. Who knowsmaybe dancing a jig in the night time moon and showering yourself with mothballs could appease the SNAKE GODS?
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| BULL FROGS:
That's right! Those big, croaking bull frogs can also be the culprits when smaller goldfish go missing. These larger species of frog have a voracious appetite and a even bigger attitude. When it comes to lord of the lily pads, these guys are it.
It's been witnessed that these frogs have attacked small birds as well as cannibalize other smaller frogs! Not to declare war on all bullfrogs, but just keep that eye out on those larger mature bullfrogs. You never know, you might have to regress to those days of yesterday, roll up the pant legs and do some FROG HUNTIN!
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